RAW EDGES

A raw edge is any cut edge of fabric that has not yet been finished, enclosed, or sewn into a seam.

As soon as fabric is cut, the edge becomes exposed and may begin to fray, stretch, curl, or distort depending on the fabric type and construction method.

In sewing, every raw edge eventually requires a decision:

• leave it exposed

• finish it

• or enclose it completely

Understanding how to handle raw edges is one of the key foundations of garment construction.

Why Raw Edges Matter

Different fabrics behave very differently once cut.

Woven fabrics such as linen or cotton may fray heavily over time, while many knit fabrics tend to curl instead of unravel. Some tightly woven or non-fraying materials can safely remain unfinished.

The way raw edges are handled affects:

• garment durability

• comfort

• appearance

• seam strength

• wash resistance

• overall construction quality

Common Ways to Finish Raw Edges

Leaving Raw Edges Exposed

Some garments intentionally leave edges unfinished as a stylistic choice. This is common in casual wear, soft linen garments, or experimental fashion.

Certain fabrics fray beautifully, while others may become messy or weaken over time.

Finished Raw Edges

Raw edges can be finished using methods such as:

• overlocking / serging

• zigzag stitching

• bias binding

• pinking shears

These methods help prevent fraying and create a cleaner interior.

Enclosed Raw Edges

Some sewing techniques completely hide the raw edge inside the garment construction.

Common examples include:

• French seams

• flat-felled seams

• lined garments

• bound seams

• folded hems

Enclosed seams and hems are often associated with higher-end or more durable garment construction.

bias tape is great for binding raw edges - this is a detail shot of a quilted garments with bound seams and edges. not my best work though .....

pinking shears create zig zag cuts that delay fraying ( for a while)

the zig zag stitch is a simple but efficient way to stabilize raw edges and keep the fray at bay- but not as tough as overlocked edges

flat felled seams enclose the raw edges and are a go to finish for jeans and denim jackets

French seams are an easy way to enclose raw edges and create a high end finish

a common finish for raw edges is the overlock/serger that cuts and envelops the edge in a chain of threads at the same time

Choosing the Right Finish

The best edge finish depends on:

• fabric type

• garment style

• durability requirements

• available equipment

• desired aesthetic

A lightweight linen shirt may use French seams, while a sweatshirt sewn from knit fabric may only require a simple overlock finish.

Beginner Tip

Before starting a project, inspect how the fabric behaves when cut. Pull gently at the edge and observe whether it frays, curls, stretches, or stays stable.

This often helps determine which finishing method will work best for the project.

Check out the short video below:

Related Entries

• Fabric grain

• Basic Seam

• Right side vs. Wrong side